Видео

Absolutely excellent video for helping us understand this..thank you !

Thanks so much! I am a new PRS shooter, and this was very helpful! I also appreciate the thoroughness of the information...

with my leupold the point of impact changes by nearly 2' from 100 yards at 12 power and 500 yards at 18 power and using the bobble head method to set the parallax. gun shoots 1/2" groups at 100 yards, scope rings are lapped, scope is level... etc... could really use some help.. Does changing the power mess with the point of impact that much or do i have other issues going on?

Great review thank you

You don't do the markings the way it should be done: instead of a tape, use a thermal (polyolefin) cable insulation which shrinks under the influence of heat. Than, instead of fine marker (pen), use a toothpick or a needle to make holes in the layer. That way, the markings will last longer.

Your bobblehead technique sounds very good, I hear a lot of people talking about parallax and that you need a parallax adjustment knob on your scope. I also heard don't trust the marks and indicated range of factory markings. I got the knob, so now what. This technique sounds great.

Very helpful video! I waited way too long to google effects of parallax on poi. I’m going to use this technique and hopefully it will improve my long range groups.

Awesome explanation 👏

Mine was way off with my G3 Monstrum. I need to set mine at 37yards for a 100 yrd target lol

I dont know if this is a stupid question, but where do you being measuring the distance from? from your eye, the objective lens, the muzzle?

Bipods are nice but being a pack shooter is best. Pack shooting is also the most consistent rest/platform. No matter what surface a pack is placed on, the gun will always react the same.

At the time of me brushing up on jewell triggers this video is 12yrs old, wow you know your an old timer when the videos you find are this old and the young people In your shooting circle have no idea what a jewell trigger is. One asked me if it had rubies on it.

Parallax markings the manufacturer puts there will never line up perfectly because parallax-free sight picture at each distance depends on how the diopter is set to each shooter's eye. And that changes for every shooter who gets behind the rifle. A parallax-free sight picture is actually a side-effect of what the parallax knob really does. It brings the target's focal plane and the reticle's focal plane into alignment. That means reticle and target are both focused/sharp. Eliminating parallax error is a result of this. And it's better/faster/easier to simply look at your target and adjust parallax to where it's in focus and call it good. Bobbleheading around isn't the best method. All the parallax knob is a focus control for your target, like on a DSLR camera lens.

An Armourer of Central Police Line in India (Gun smith or gun repair guy in USA🙄) showed this to me almost 50 years back. Instead of " bobbling" my head, he would set the scope on a measured 100 meters target and me to look through the scope and move my head slowly right and left and the reticle would not move at all from the bulls eye.🤔At that age I was more keen on hunting game than messing with SO CALLED PARALLAX. I do not recall ever missing on game due to parallax. Now most of the quality scopes are parallax free.

just had to sneak the sales pitch in there lol

Super appreciate the detailed walk through! Great job - thank you!

Likely had to sort through 37,700 arrows to find three able to produce close to identical POIs. And in the process 3755 arrows self-destructed due to the fact they were crap. And letting them sit in your den for 8 years does not make them any better. I can verify that. A very accurate bow and extremely poor arrows.

what stock is that? and what details on that rifle sir? Its got my interest

Thanks

Your setting for a parallax free setting should correspond to the sharpest image you can get at that range. Unless you are using the Parallax adjustment for range finding then there's no need to do all that. Your laser rangefinder will provide the range, then adjust the scope for the sharpest and clearest image possible at that range and your parallax should be eliminated. If you're still having problem then that would mean that either the scope is junk or you need to go back and readjust the reticle to YOUR eyes to get the sharpest possible reticle at the first peek inside the scope.

Perfect. Thanks.

Great video. I've heard there's a method of adjusting parallax to where both the reticle and target are clear. If so maybe you could inform us more about it!

Thanks for that great explanation.

what rear bag are you using?

Nice scope

All that money for that scope and no parallax markings? Thanks for warning me. I will never buy that scope. At that price point, there’s no excuse on why they don’t have it

Great video, thank you. I also like the training for parallax by Todd Hodnett. It’s critical past 700 yrds. ruclips.net/video/kSMYz3Xw2Yk/видео.html ruclips.net/video/GNbf8SCN6Fc/видео.html

you're correct about those feet turning on you when on a flat hard surface but where I shoot we put carpet down first and using the pointed feet I have solved that problem. I did tough file down the ends of the spiked feet a bit so the legs just rest on the carpet not dig in and cause damage.

Thanks mate I've seen quite a few videos on the importance of having parallax setting right. Your the first one that had actually explained simplyn how to adjust.

New to the channel but very intrigued on what your doing on this channel especially the bobble head for parallax , my question is say im at 100 yards and i move my terrets up 6 moa to hit a good grouping close to bulls eye, now do i take off the terret and rest to zero? in order for it to be a true zero and not have to adjust at 6 moa ?

Outstanding video. Short and to the point. Thanks!

Hey great video. Very detailed. Very helpful thanks

Your camera 🎥 it’s so fuckingggg bad

thank you for the video.

so what about the scopes that dont have parallax adjustment?

If you all haven't seen a documentary called... it's worse than you think...by revelations of Jesus Christ ministries... I suggest you do... All praise and glory to the most high Jesus Christ

When you replace the turret cap and align it to zero after putting your shims in (in your video you wanted to zero stop it with the turret at 2 minutes), will the turret cap go past zero as you dial back down from a long range shot? Or is not a hard stop and you just know that when you are at zero, for this example, the turret is at two minutes?

I'm pretty new to long range and just recently got my first scope, so I'm dabbling in this. One thing that frustrates me a bit and I just found out from playing with it is... NOBODY ever talks about how adjusting the parallax ALSO causes the target to go in and out of focus. I've never heard anyone say anything about that. They only talk about the crosshair shift, and this video is no different. So now that I've seen the *focus* thing (changing at different magnifications) for my own eyes, the obvious question (that nobody talks about) arises: How much correlation is there between the *FOCUS* on the target being clear and the *PARALLAX* being right? Does a crisp focus ALWAYS equate to the right parallax, or not... or they are totally unrelated??

Therea gotta be some diy to stop the rotating ends right? Tape glue? Or even after market ends

Thanks Andy, I realize this video is 4 years old now. It looks like Sig no longer has the Kilo 2400 ABS. What's there replacement for the 2400 ABS? I see there BDX line that connects to their BDX scope. I don't want their scope at all.

Wow so happy I found this so I could get a BT46 instead of BT10!

The Atlas naming conventions make less sense than Glock's do. And that's saying something.

Great video. Thank you.

This was a quick but precise explanation. I recently watched a mark and Sam after work episode of an even more detailed explanation of parallax, but with the same outcome. “Knowledge is power” thank you

Great video.. thanks.

10 pieces will get you there

Just grind the rubber feet flat on one side.....then it won't rotate

Andy, this is very helpful, concidering iam very old and not a wiz with new things. my son gave me a new 1600 Kelo, not the 2400, have you done a vedio on them. i found this on on accident by luckly search. great vedio. thanks John Marschall.

Very clear, Thankyou.

what adaptor or atachment you put on your rifle to accept the bipods? And do you attached to the swivel stud? TIA